The 3rd Rockers.

Because they're cheap and I get good customer service at Don Kyatt in Moorabbin.


I'm not a believer.
In my experience the Cone Washers promote Hub Stud bending, because the Cone Washers don't need to be precisely fitted into the Hub body's chamfer. Also, there is a gap between the Hub mounting surface and the Cone Washer on the Studs of a few mm, and the Cone Washer only covers 8mm of the Stud compared to the AVM which supports 13mm of Stud immediately from the Hub's surface.

I do now carry spare Free Wheeling Hubs, they're Mile Markers I got from Summit Racing.

mate..... you've got to much money...

Whilst the Car remains inoperable, I rebuilt the Brake Calipers with new Pistons and Seals.

As Don Kyatt's Internet Site is lacking in detail on the Pistons, I'm listing this 'ere to help others in the future.
Small Piston JB8520 Get four of
Big Piston JB8519 Get four of
Seal Kit 04479-30031

I fitted all new Hub Studs this afternoon, and I completed installing the Mile Marker hubs. - Hopefully I have better luck this time.

Is it working now?

It seems to be, but I wont really know 'til this afternoon.

I've had a new Filter housing sitting around for about two years, and I bought a new genuine Filter from Toyota a few months back. The Filter screwed onto the Housing just fine, but the new Filter housing wouldn't mount to the original Bracket, so I removed the 10mm Studs, elongated one of the holes and used 8mm Nuts, Bolts and 5/16" Washers.

Another problem is that in the new setup the Water Sensor mounts from the underside of the Filter, but the original Water Sensor is too long and has a different size of Thread. I first tried sourcing a new Water Sensor from Toyota, which was initially said to be available and cost $190.00 + Tax and take 3-4 weeks to come from Japan, but I was later informed that it was nolonger made. Then I tried all the Nippon Denso dealers here in Australia, from the mobs that did reply they said that the part was only available through Toyota dealers. Next I got back in contact with the Toyota Dealer to find out the Part Number, which is 8446130040, with this information I scoured the Internet and found it available in Ukraine, so I asked my Russian Friend about it. Finally I asked cdan if that part was somewhere in the American dealer network.
Last resort was to make an adapter on the Lathe, which is what my Uncle did for me. The overall length is 82mm, but I don't recall what the Thread sizes are.



Horn Relay Terminals
30: Red Wire, connect to a powered source when the Ignition is on.
85: Black Wire, connect to both Negative terminals in the Clips. - No need to ground 'em.
86: Green Wire, connect to the Positive Clip of the Water Sensor
87:
87a: Blue Wire, connect to the Positive Clip that goes to the Dashboard warning light and alarm.

I've now also replaced all the Fuel lines in the Engine bay with SAE 30R7 made in the USA by Gates, except for the short piece of 5/32" for the Fuel return, which runs from the Fuel rail to the Injector Pump. - More heartache

38.09 RWHP
30% overfuelled
20% less power than stock
Wallet $367.30 lighter

bugger!

so it's 38hp before or after the tune?

It wasn't tuned, only the Ignition Timing was adjusted.

Yesterday when I was driving home I noticed a white mark on the CB Antenna, I thought it may have been unwashed degreaser, but nope, they've stripped the Powdercoat off. Another repair I'll have to make and another workshop gets listed on Jonathan's list of non recommended suppliers.

The idiot also blasted the sticker off the Fusebox cover. Why don't people take pride in their work these days?

Finding trades people that take pride in their workmanship are 2 and far between ,trust me I know I earn a living from fixing up other tradespeople F#@K UPS

JF,

Next time go to Rushdale Automotive, Knoxfield 9764 0232 ask for Bruce.

Very good mechanic and has a very loyal customer base.

Cheers

James.

Visited the Engine Builder yesterday, he's going to look into it and send the Injector Pump to be redone. Just this afternoon I disconnected everything in order to pull the Engine out, all done within a few hours. Then all I'll have to do is remove the Bonnet and undo the four Engine Mounts' nuts and bolts.

Visited the Engine Builder again today, all he's done for me is remove the Head and have the Injectors and Injector Pump rebuilt by someplace called John's Diesel in Hallam. - No refund, no replacement, no repair, no compensation.
All I can do is pay for it to be done from scratch again, this time I'll supply the parts, also this time I'm planning to get a gnarly Camshaft grind.

I just don't understand why it's so difficult to get work done properly on a Diesel Otto cycle engine.

Ok you could just buy my hilux, this way you get a turbo, gas injection, an intercooler and a heap of other stuff.

The sills are even being fixed

This is probably cheaper than having your motor rebuilt again and you get a car thats a few years younger.

bahahaha even jf doesnt want your puss hehehe

Another visit to the Engine Builder, this time speaking with David, a much better experience.
The gnarly Camshaft is off the agenda, from what David said a Diesel Engine doesn't benefit from a Camshaft with longer duration than standard. - Didn't mention Lobe Separation Angle.
Onto the good news, David is going to order in a set of 3L Pistons to compare the distance of the Gudgeon Pin to the Crown. Other items he's going to check are the Liner thicknesseses. David even knew the difference between the 2L and 3L Conrod Bush and Connectingrod, which is that the 2L is parallel into the Piston, whereas the 3L has a giant chamfur to fit inside the Piston and David already has a plan to machine the 2L Conrods. All this for 78 thousandths of an inch.

How many times can you rebuild an engine before it's doing more damage than good? Has your block been machined too much?

I'm waiting for conformation, but the chap did say that he believes that he used 0.040" Pistons previously. I now can't remember if he said that the Bigend or Main Bearings he used last time were 0.010", either way, 0.025", 0.050" and 0.075" are available for both.

Today was the big day.
I picked the Engine up last Friday and pony'd up $1,846.06 for essentially just replacing the Piston Rings, rehoning the cylinder bores and having the Injectors and Injector Pump reconditioned, but they did check all the specs and the only issues were that the Tappets were way loose and that the Engine had such low compression that it could be turned over by hand by twisting the Crank pulley.
I had the Engine installed the same day, and last night I just had to install a new Clutch line clip(the original went flying when I tried to reinstall it), bleed the Clutch and disconnect the Battery from the Charger, and the backup battery, and the backup's backup battery. - I initially thought the Starter motor was bad, so I pulled it out on Tuesday and upon testing it with a known good battery instead of the one that had been sitting for the last 8 months.
I didn't post earlier incase I jinxed myself.
Anyway, today I set off at quarter past six this morning and arrived back home at five past six this evening. - No battery drama, infact no drama of any kind in the 817km to Cann River via Bruthen and back via Lakes Entrance.
I bought diesel in Sale going both ways and in the first stint I averaged 11.311 L/100km which included 205km prior to the rebuild and 184km to Sale, then to Cann River and back I completed 447km averaging 10.8881 L/100km - Compared to the first rebuild when I was using between 11.7 and 15 L/100km
Other observations are that the Exhaust Gas Temperature is significantly lower, in the region of 100 - 150 °C lower. The car will now easily do 100 in 100km/h zones and will repeatedly creep upto 105 so I have to take my foot off the throttle, also 110km/h is now continually possible as is 120km/h on the highway.
The only change I made to the setup of the car is that I replaced the Donalson TopSpin, because it developed a crack, with a Cummins Filtration AP8408.

Tomorrow I'll change out the oil with the Chevron CI-4 Plus I recently got.

Good to hear when something goes to plan!!, Top stuff JF

Anything special about that oil JF?
Is it natural or synthetic, I read a couple of old articles in 4wd monthly recently about differences between the two, while I use the older style, I wonder if there is a big difference for these older diesels...