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 Post subject: strengthening std 40# steering linkages
PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 4:58 pm 
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Location: not as far away as i wish i could be..
I was out at ormeau this morning and bent my relay rod (i think thats wot its called)..

yep its bent!
Image

superman trying to straighten it
Image

how straight we managed to get it
Image

I think i remember MY45 (of OL) sayin he used 75# steering links with a 5mm sleeve for the 40 tre's. If this is the case where would you go about getting the sleeve made for them? could you just get some 5mm wall pipe and tap that??

is there any other alternatives to whats listed above that you guys know of? I dont have a 60#ps setup so the standard 40# steering box exists so if I could strengthen all bits (tie rod,drag link) it would be good (the drag link has a slight bend too) but the relay rod is first priority i guess

thanks for your help

ip.


Last edited by IronPaw on Tue Jul 17, 2007 12:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 5:05 pm 
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Replace with 75 will all bolt straight on except for where it connects to the steering relay box unless you have 60 series steering. You also need the king pin arms as well to do this. This will upgrade rod ends and all :idea:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 5:14 pm 
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wow.. just what i want to hear! thanks Daz!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 9:07 pm 
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Damn! I think you're gonna need a wheel alignment.

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 Post subject: same thing
PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 9:38 pm 
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i did the same thing on ellis last time i attempted it just jacked the car up in the middle of the linkage and it basically straightened it for the rest of the track atleast


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 11:25 pm 
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We unbended bad_religion's with a PTO in Gembrook :shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 11:53 pm 
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Location: scumshine
yep 60/75 arms are much bigger i run them on mine with 60 series steering box
alot of the zuki guys weld angle iron along there steering linkages so they dont bend as easily


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 6:41 pm 
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Location: not as far away as i wish i could be..
heres a pic of the straightening process:
Image

basically we are using the hilift as a winch to another vehicle, a tree protector thru fairleadrollers to the bent relay rod, strapped in postion behind the hoop on the front bar. a slow and controlled straightening process. unfortunately we did damage one of the threads on a tre.

heres a vid showing how the damage was inflicted. http://dopegoat.com/media/170406%20-%20 ... Ormeau.avi

just before the slow mo bit in the vid, the wheels grab hard and turn right, and the steering wheel wasn't ripped out of my hands, it did nothing, i'm suspecting this is when it weakened the first time.

keen to figure out how to sleeve 75# rod for 40 tre's instead of welding angle to current rod. any info welcome.

churs,

ip.


Last edited by IronPaw on Tue Jul 17, 2007 12:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 6:44 pm 
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Location: scumshine
what about getting a straight 40 relay rod and then finding some heavy wall tube to slip over it ?? then just weld it at each end


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 6:53 pm 
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Just watched th video clip, crikey can't believe it bent with what you were doing. Oh and great clip :thumbup:

BJ

p.s who's the band :headbang:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 7:05 pm 
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Location: not as far away as i wish i could be..
i guess thats just as good as anything else eh... probly less welding. again there are legalities involved with welding any steering components and all are bad.. i tried to get a new 40 relay rod from donkyatt's but they rreckon i'll have to get one from toyota.

i think i'll chase up landcruisermart and a few 4x4 parts joints tomorrow to find a new or 2nd hand 40 rod, as this is probably the easiest solution. if that fails i'll have to consider my other options. bracing the existing rod with angle seems to be the easiest right now (and quickest! fraser in 8days).

in regards to using the 75# rod.. with the sleeves for the tre's i'm trying to figure out how you would make something that is treaded on the outside and on the inside. you would need to get the wall thickness spot on to work properly.. and most likely tapered too? maybe welding another pipe over the top is the next best thing?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 7:08 pm 
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if you cut the pipe the correct length you should even have to weld it hence legal

just leave enough room for the clamps that stop the tre from turning and the pipe will only move what 5mm if you cut it to length correctly

if you get just get normal tube rather than seamless the seam will grab the rod and it should move you will just have to BASH it on with a hammer

i would have done this to mine but went 60 steering and used all scottos old arms/rods i think there all 75 series


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 8:06 pm 
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bj42turbo wrote:
p.s who's the band :headbang:


The Cult - Love Removal Machine

That was my first vid with my new cam, good thing ironpaw broke something to make it interesting :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2006 1:39 pm 
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I'm doing the disc brake conversion (and power steering) from 60 series to my 75 model 40. I've used the 60 swivel hubs and knuckle arms but obviously the 40 tie rod ends are too small for the knuckle arms. After reading this thread is it safe to say that 75 series steering arms should bolt straight in, ie; correct width from knuckle to knuckle and 75 tie rod ends are correct fit for 60 knuckle arms? Will the 75 upper steering arm also be correct fitment for the 60 pitman armoff the steering box? So the only isssue is locating the stabiliser mount?

Cheers,
Ray


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2006 6:50 pm 
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Thanks, Bad Religion Au replied answered this question for me on OL. :thumbup:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 7:01 pm 
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How does it end please tell me, i need to know ray . Dont leave me hanging , i'm in the middle of the same rebuild and want the solution.
Thanks guys Simon

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:31 am 
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Hi shorty. Yeah it ends pretty much as I hoped it would in my above question. If using 60 series knuckle steering arms and 60 p/s box then 75 series drag link and relay rod (with all the 75 series tie rod ends) will be exactly what you need to bolt it all up. The drag link and relay rod are exactly the right length and the tie rod ends are the right taper for the 60 pitman arm and knuckle steering arms. The only thing you will have to do is go to a 60 or 75 series steering dampener and relocate the bracket on the chassis to suit.

Is that what you are doing or are you just wanting to upgrade your drag link? (not doing p/s conversion)

I'll put up some pics in a sec to explain a bit better.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:47 am 
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Thanks ray,
Im currently in the process of putting on the 60 series disk knuckles, But I have manual steering. I'm thinking i could just get the 6o series rods and cut them to the same size as the 40's and re-tap them .Either that or i could try and find a 60 series powersteering set up and change it all. :shock:
Cheers Simon

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 11:07 am 
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ok Simon, here are some pics to explain what I just said. I reckon 60 p/s is one of the best mods you can do to a 40, especially if you're going to run big tyres.

Image
Image
Image

If you decide that you dont want to go p/s for a while or at all then you can just use the 75 drag link and ends. All you would have to do is find a tie rod end that will be the right taper for the relay rod to drag link joint(in the above picture). A 75 series one wont work as it wont thread into your 40 relay rod (much bigger). I think from memory there is someone that makes this joint but cant remember who. Someone here may know the supplier.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 11:41 am 
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Thanks ray your a champion, great pics , this helps me heaps, i'm going to look into the p/s conversion more.
Cheers Simon

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 4:26 pm 
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No probs, there is a wealth of info on the p/s conversion on this forum as there are quite a number of us that have done it. Give us a yell if you need any help.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 5:02 pm 
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Looks just like mine :mrgreen:

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